I received the Manker E14 from Tmart.com for the review, courtesy of Ray.
Purchase link – Coupon code: E14
I should receive the light a few weeks from its launch on the market, but the package was lost on its way, then it was sold out… Finally is here and I can review it.
Manker’s specs for the E14
Emitter Type: 4x Cree XP-G3 / 4x NICHIA 219B LED
Circuit Driver: A17DD-L FET + 1 Driver
Light Tint: XPG3 (6500K), 219B (5000K)
Material: Aero grade aluminum alloy & copper
– Group 1: Moon – Low – Med1 – Med2 – High1 – High2 – Turbo (Short press < 0.5s)
– Group 2: Low, Med, High,Turbo (Short press<0.5s) + Moon – Turbo – Tactical Strobe-Battery check – Bike Flasher (Medium press 0.5s-1.5s)
Battery Configurations: 1 x 18350/16340 battery ( Package NOT Battery)
Switch Type: Click Switch
Switch Location: Tail of the flashlight
Impact Resistant : 1 meter
Max Output: 1600lumens (max)/Cree XPG3 LED; 1400lumens(max)/NICHIA 219B LED
Working Voltage: 2.8 – 4.35v
Waterproof: IPX-8 waterproof 2 meters
Weight: 90g without battery
Size: 80mm x 24mm(length x body diameter)
Special-edition with a direct-drive FET, so it has the brightest turbo mode you can get.
– special-edition with a regulated lower-power second channel for stable and efficient low modes.
– True moon mode.
– Up to 1600 lumens (Max.) / CREE XPG3 LED; 1400 lumens (Max.) / NICHIA 219B LED.
– User-toggle-able mode memory.
– User-toggle-able mode groups.
– Well-spaced visually-linear output modes.
– Includes some hidden modes for those who want them.
– Battery check mode.
– Clicky-switch stock light with both forward and backward mode navigation in a single tap (short/medium press).
– With mode memory off, the user can access 4 different modes (including the highest and lowest) within 1 second.
– Fast PWM so the pulsing won’t be visible.
– The firmware and the driver designs are available for anyone who wants to modify them
With this light you’ll need for sure a manual.
AR Glass on top of the optic for the 4 LEDs
The light has a distinctive look, with black anodization and a copper head. This helps also the heat dissipation, because this light has a great output and a small size (80x24mm) but it is not the lightest light (due to the copper part).
The other side of the head
At the tailcap there are 2 golden coiled springs.
If you noticed, there is no o-ring on one side of the body. It arrived broken and I had not replaced it yet when I took the pics.
The tailcap allows tailstand, and has 2 lanyard holes. The mechanical switch at the head is very sensitive. Once you turn on the light, you’ll need a very light touch to produce the tap, a brief half pressure that is needed to move through levels.
Oh my, where do I start?
Ok, this light has an interface that is customizable, it means that you can set the number of modes between 7 (moonlight, low, med1, med2, high1, high2, turbo + special modes) or 4 (low, med, high, turbo).
Special modes are: strobe, battery check, bike flash (2 rapid flash in loop, then the light stays on for a second then 2 rapid flashes, in loop). To advance in the modes you have to make a quick press, to retrocede in the modes you have to make a longer press.
Memory mode can be activated or deactivated (the light will start at moonlight or low mode).
The light comes pre-set with 7 modes and memory mode off.
To change the settings, you have to operate the switch as indicated in the manual.
Beamshot at 0.5 meters from the wall
I have made beamshots versus a really warm and a really cool white light, because if I posted just a single comparison the E14 would appear very warm (against a cool white light) or very cool (against a warm white light). As comparison I have used the Manker MK34 XP-G3 Cool white version at mid2 mode (which according to my measurements is around 1300 lumens), and a Armytek Wizard Pro Warm HICRI XM-L2 at turbo mode.
As said before, do not use beamshot to measure the brightness of different lights.
There are countless factors that make beamshots mainly useful only to compare difference in brightness and tint.
The E14 Nichia version I got has a very pleasant warm sided neutral white (around 4000-4500K). I have seen Nichia 219b emitters much with much cooler tint, around 5000K (which to my eyes is almost cool white), and I am happy with the emitter choice on my E14.
When using the light at close distances, for example around the house, the spots practically disappears even within few meters. This light can’t throw and it is obviously made for close distances.
Output and runtime
They have been tested using Efest 18350 IMR batteries. With this light, IMR batteries are mandatory. You can also use 16340 IMR, but remember that the runtime will be even more shortened.
Sampling time is every 2 for levels 7,6,5,4, and every 90 for level 3.
Oh, and before you ask… Yes, a small light that discharges an 18350 700mAh battery in 10 minutes gets very hot.
At the end of the runtime tests the batteries were always above the minimum discharge voltage.
On the E14 the fit and finishes are good. There are some minor signs of manufacturing on the inside of tailcap, but I don’t consider them relevant.
I like the design on this light. It appeals to the eye and is useful managing to improve heat dissipation. The tradeoff is an increase of the weight.
The UI has some personalization options, and allows to pass through the levels decreasing or increasing the brightness, as the user wants. However, it lacks direct access to minimum and maximum output, which I like.
The 7 levels are well spaced, the strobe and other functions are hidden; I like the bike flash locator. I’ll trade any SOS mode for this flash.
Passing throught the 7 levels can be done very easily and quickly thanks to the high sensitive switch.
I’m sure someone will complain about the heat coming from the light, or the short runtimes.
Well, with such a small light, you have to be happy it becomes hot: it is a sign of good heath dissipation. If a light doesn’t get hot, means that it is not dissipating heat efficiently, and you are overheating what’s inside.
For the runtime, no magic can be done here. This is a small light and can run only small batteries, thus the relative short runtime at high output modes.
Manker has made an 18650 body that you can use for running the E14 with 18650 batteries. I currently don’t have it. I will update my review with the runtime data if and when I get one of these.
If you look for a EDC light that packs a lot of lumens, has a beam for close distances and good levels spacing, and you dig the interface, this ligth should fit your needs.
Thanks to: AntoLed for the camera and the luxmeter.
I have always said that a sheath makes a light better usable because it increases the chance to carry it.
I had this Sunwayman holster around, that I used for the T01.
Works fine for me!
EDIT: I asked Manker for the extention tube for the 18650 cells and I got it.
The copper with a protective layer of the E14 hold up really well. There’s a small area with same darker mark, probably where the clip rests on the head in the 18350 configuration.
The light becomes longer and heavier, however, compared to the shorter 18350 configuration, it is more balanced regarding the weight.